"I dreamed. . . that I drank from the most extraordinary soup I had ever tasted, every briny sip was a kind of ecstasy. . . The soup was filled with all that I had ever cared for in my life, and while I drank it, this man spoke his words right into my heart." - Arthur Golden,
Memoirs of a Geisha
There is something about soup in the winter. Last week the nomelette braved some sub-freezing weather for soup with an old friend who is, ironically, one degree removed from Arthur Golden.
At
Pho 14 in Columbia Heights, I was greeted by a man with a handwritten list of names (the wait would be around 20 minutes on a crowded weekday night) at a smallish place that smelled like the real deal - beef, chicken, and the unmistakable, unctuous whiff of fish sauce. With the smoothly laquered counters, colored lights, and the construction right outside, for a moment, I imagined myself in Hanoi, at some upscale restaurant by the lake. The illusion vanished as I read the largely English menu. I started the order with some spring rolls (the kind with seafood inside, not fried.) The appetizer was about $5.95. The presentation was delightful - curlicues of calamari peeked out of steamed rice paper wrapped around some pale root vegetables. My friend, expecting the usual shrimp & basil combo, looked at it askance. I suppose some people do not find protruding tentacles to be that appetizing.
Anyway, the calamari was so delicate as to be bland to my admittedly cruder taste. Next time I'll stick with a traditional shrimp version. The seafood, however, was very fresh, so I am excited to see what else the house can do with it.
For a little less than $9, I snagged a regular bowl of the No. 8 pho; a rich mix of beef tendon, top round, flank steak, and just the right amount of noodles. To tendon haters: embrace the chew - it's funner. The taste is very similar to what you'd find at the sister restaurant, Pho 75, in Falls Church, which is to say, great. The broth is very beefy and perfectly clear; no fat clouds the surface. I feel there's enough pho to satisfy even the hungriest. Even the regular bowl was way bigger than my face; better eaters can order up two sizes, too.
Basil. lime, bean sprouts, fish sauce, hoison sauce, and hot sauce are all at your disposal; there was one plate for friend and I to share. And the sliced jalepenos! I suppose I'm an oddball but pho to me isn't pho unless I am crying tears of spicy joy. Other than that, it needs minimal doctoring.
While the menu offers an array of rice and noodle options, everyone I saw that night was drinking up the special.
If you are in the Columbia Heights area, I definitely recommend giving this place a shot. The decor is super cute, the food arrives very quickly (our order was ready in less than 15 minutes) and the lighting is especially nice.
Overall, this place definitely earns 4.5/5 noms. I would be inclined to give it five, were the competition in NoVA not so impossibly stiff. For a meal under $15 that soothes your tummy, you'd be hard-pressed to find a better place in D.C.